![]() ![]() Sediments started forming around the radiator cap, preventing fluid Should have learned the 1st time.I recently had to flush my entire cooling system because Anyway cars stil in the driveway and taking my heads apart from this twin cam engine. So again guys check your oil and spark plugs for signs of water/ coolant compression check why pay a mechanic when all u need is a few tools in the garage. You want to do these 3 steps before replacing parts & start assuming its something else save time and money.I just discovered my spark plugs had coolant. From my experience all I can tell the rest of you make sure your oils and coolant are always topped off and start the process of elimination, #1oil does not look milky #2 compression check with tools at home if possible #3 check your spark plugs! And see if they are wet. Had a similar issue with a different car but resolved the issue. Car has been sitting in the driveway close to a month now. However when I replaced the waterpump it worked fine for about a week then started to overheat again. Water pump, thermostsat and flushed the radiator hose because it was still overheating and couldnt figure out why. I am not sure what happen in between the time this became a huge problem was driving my car around and replacing small parts crossing my fingers hoping it will solve the issue, so I replaced these one by one and was still overheating. July 10 2016, I recently started having the same issues. ![]() 7:turn on the water and watch the surge tank the water will start to rise you will be able to contol the level by regulating the flow from the hose. 5:I connected a garden hose to the "y" flushing adapter I also used a ball cock valve to control the water flow. 3:I cut the top heater hose(near the fire wall) and installed a "y" flushing adapter inline 4:I also connected a drain hose to the engine outlet (where I disconnected the top rad hose) I did this so as to not make a mess. THE FIX: I started from square one again which a few changes to the filling procedure: 1: drained the coolant you will get approximately 5 litres out of the pee cock(don't forget to open the rad bleed valve) 2:disconnect the top rad hose from the engine. Ant exactly and all the burping procedures this did not solve the overheating problem. I had the coolant system pressure tested again, no interal/external leaks, replaced radiator and oem thermostat. ![]() Make sure you trust the mechanic and he/she tests the used motor to make sure it doesn't have any pre-existing problems.Īlso, make sure to put the thermostat in that GM recommends or you'll blow that head gasket also. You money will be better spent finding a used engine with 50,000 miles on it and having it installed. While you have someone push the accelerator, look inside the coolant.Īs the engine revs up to about 1,500 rpms, you'll see large bubbles coming up in the coolant.Īnd don't bother putting another dime into that engine. They know this because the manufacturer issued a TSB years ago, and almost every one of these engines that didn't have these replaced ended up blowing the head gasket.Īlso, it's easier to check for a blown head gasket than it is to replace any one of the parts you've already replaced.Īll you need to do is pop the top of the overflow tank (While engine is cool). Those dealer mechanics were complete idiots and probably just wanted to take your money.Įvery dealer knows these motors are prone to head gasket failure because the factory thermostats that were originally installed were causing these motors to run way hotter than they were designed to. ![]()
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